
I meant to write about this long ago — Deni, a commenter on my Clover Milk post (Hi Deni!), pointed out that Cornucopia.org has a lot of information on the details of various organic and faux-organic dairy farms — so if you’re concerned about buying milk, you can read up on the details at Cornucopia.org (Pearl — you’ve used Cornucopia.org, right? Has it been useful?). Cornucopia’s goal is to “fight for economic justice for the family-scale farming community. Through research, advocacy, and economic development,” its “goal is to empower farmers both politically and through marketplace initiatives.” It runs the Organic Integrity Project, which acts as a “corporate watchdog assuring that no compromises to the credibility of organic farming methods and the food it produces are made in the pursuit of profit.” Cornucopia.org also “actively resists regulatory rollbacks and the weakening of organic standards to protect and maintain consumer confidence in the organic food label.” Cornucopia has some really fascinating information on how certain “bad” organic farms have managed to obey the letter of the law but not the spirit by producing goods that conform to the restrictions the USDA organic labeling requires, but have found loopholes that make any real organic-devotee horrified. One thing these so-called organic farms do is sell their calves after they are first born to normal “bad” farms that over-antibioticize, use reproductive hormones, feed the cattle non-vegetarian-probably- containing-ground-up- cattle-bits-that- will-give-you- mad-cow-disease food for the first two years of their lives, and then buy the calves back when they are two years old and start producing milk. So Cornucopia really provides a valuable service by bringing these practices to light. (Disclaimer: I do think being a vegan is the absolutely best way to be cruelty-free — no dairy farm I’ve heard of is perfectly cruelty-free — read the comments in the Clover post to learn about various complaints people make about dairy farms — but if you’d like to buy milk from cows that lead better, more humane lives than most commercially farmed cows, Cornucopia.org and the American Humane Association will point you in the right direction.)
I think this is very useful if used in conjunction with the American Humane Association’s “free-farmed” list — you can look up dairy farms on the free-farmed list to make sure you’re buying products that are nicer to the farm animals than most farms, and then you can look up the details on Cornucopia.org. For example, Cornucopia.org has given Clover-Stornetta, the AHA certified free farmed farm that’s stocked at my local grocery stores, a rating of 4/5 — and a detailed scorecard:
Clover-Stornetta Scorecard:
Farm Name: Clover Stornetta
Rating: 4/5
Products: Fluid milk products
Market Area: California
Web site: http://www.cloverstornetta.com
Four family-operated farms, ranging in size from 150 to 380 cows, modest in scale by California standards, ship to Clover Stornetta Farms. Half of this milk is supplied by members of the Humboldt Cooperative Creamery in Northern California, a farmer-owned cooperative that has been a leader in defending organic integrity. Clover Stornetta writes
“Clover Stornetta Farms and its mascot Clo the Cow have been prominent figures in Sonoma County for over three decades. In 2000, Clover Stornetta Farms became the first dairy in the United States awarded with the American Humane Association’s Free Farmed label for humanely produced dairy products. This means that Clover cows are free from unnecessary distress, fear, pain, injury, discomfort, hunger, or thirst. Clover is the only dairy in California to be awarded with this certification.”
Ownership structure: 80/100 points, “Partnership-farmer ties”
Milk Supply : 90/100 points, “50% Own patrons/Humboldt”
Disclosure of Information for Verification: 100 /100 points, “Extensive disclosure”
Certifier farms : 80/100 points, “CCOF and QAI”
Certifier processing: 90/100 points, “QCS”
Cows on pasture time/acreage provided : 80/100 points, “Legitimate pasture in challenging climate”
Health and longevity of cows : 100 /100 points, “Low cull rate”
Replacement animals only from organic farms : 100 /100 points, “Closed herds”
Antibiotics used on young cattle : 100 /100 points, “Never”
Reproductive hormones used : 50/100 points, “Not to our knowledge”
Farm support oversight : 90/100 points, “All dairies and visited regularly by staff”
Outside dairy ingredients purchased : 80/100 points, “Humboldt preferred powder vendor”
TOTAL SCORE: 1040 /1200 points, Overall ranking: 4/5 — “excellent”
As you can see, Clover missed one star (and scored 1040 out of 1200 possible points), which bumped it down from “outstanding” to “excellent,” because it lost a few points in several categories — it is a family business with close ties/partnerships with farmers, but not a farmer-owned-cooperative or owned-and-operated by a resident farm family, its milk supply is only 50% from its own dairies, not 100% from a single family farm, it is certified by CCOF and QAI, which Cornucopia only ranks as 80/100 possible points, its certifier processing is QCS, which Cornucopia only ranks as 90/100 possible points, its cows aren’t in pastures all the time — Cornucopia has some complicated algorithm so it gives Clover 80/100 possible points for pasturage — it scored 50/100 points for hormone usage (I’m a little confused by this — “not to our knowledge” must not be adequately keeping reproductive hormones out?), it has a staff that visits the dairies regularly, but the staff does not live on the dairy farm, and Clover does purchase outside ingredients from Humboldt dairies (though Humboldt is highly rated by Cornucopia standards). However, Clover scored full 100/100 points in several categories — extensive disclosure of information for verification to Cornucopia, a low cull rate (yes! I care about this one a lot), closed herds (I like this one too!), and never using antibiotics in young cattle (probably good).
While I like the organic information Cornucopia provides, I’m really concerned with animal welfare. This means that I’m especially happy that Clover has a low cull rate, which means the herds are pretty healthy, closed herds, which means Clover doesn’t sell the cows at birth to “bad” farms and buy them back when they are two years old and ready to produce milk, and I’m mildly pleased that Clover doesn’t use reproductive hormones and overuse antibiotics because reproductive hormones sound unpleasant and overusing antibiotics leads to staph infections. However, I’m not so pleased that Clover only scored 80/100 points on the pasture. I’d prefer to buy from a dairy that scores 100 points for pasture. (Though that’s really problematic because I haven’t seen any other milk products around here that are both on the AHA free farmed list and scores 100/100 points. If you live in the Bay Area — are any of the five or four star dairy products available at a store near you? If so, which ones?)
Here’s the exact scale Cornucopia uses to determine the scores:
1. Market Area
2. Ownership Structure
- 100 Farmstead dairy (owned and operated by resident farm family)
- 90 Farmer-owned cooperative
- 80 Family-owned business with close ties/partnership with farmers
- 70 Corporate/investor owned with deep roots/ties with farmers
- 65 Stonyfield: unique governance policy with Hirshberg family
- 60 Investor-owned corporation
- 50 Investor-owned corporation with questionable track record
- 25 Any ownership with history as a “bad actor”
- 0 No answer
3. Milk Supply
- 100 Farmstead dairy
- 95 Farmstead dairy, buys additional milk from neighbors
- 90 Cooperative/small corporation/multiple farms (from own patrons)
- 85 50% or more from own patrons plus a highly rated supplier
- 70 Purchases some outside milk from highly rated suppliers
- 60 Purchases subcontracted out without direct control
- 50 Purchases some percentage of milk from “open market”
- 0–30 Purchases some percentage of milk from confinement dairies (points depend on percentage)
- 0 No answer
4. Disclosure/Farm Contact Information for Verification
- 100 Full disclosure
- 0–90 Partial disclosure (points depend on number of questions fully answered)
5/6. Farm Certifier
Ratings (0–100) for certifiers are based on the history and integrity of the certifying organization and its history
of approving certification of farms that are suspected of creating/exploiting loopholes in the current regulations.
- CCOF California Certified Organic Farmers
- COFA California Organic Farmers Association
- GOA Global Organic Alliance
- ICO Indiana Certified Organic
- IDALS Iowa Dept of Agriculture and Land Stewardship
- Integrity Integrity Certified International
- MOSA Midwest Organic Service Association
- NOFA-VT Northeast Organic Farming Association–Vermont
- OC One Cert
- OEFFA Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association
- OTCO Oregon Tilth
- PCO Pennsylvania Certified Organic
- QAI Quality Assurance International
- Stellar Stellar Certification Services (Demeter)
- VOF Vermont Organic Farmers
7. Pasture Provided
Rating 0–100 is based on the following criteria:
- Policies requiring pasture in addition to USDA regulations
- Enforcement/oversight
- Amount of acreage available per cow on the firm’s largest farms
- Average days cows are on pasture per year
- Permissible exemptions
8. Cull rate
Rating is based on the health and longevity of a farm’s cattle, taking into account the farm’s slaughter rate/cull rate.
- 100 Annual cull rate under 10%
- 90 Annual cull rate under 30%
- 50 Limited information supplied
9. Management History of Replacement Animals (Calves and Heifers)
- 100 Closed herd (no purchases of outside animals)
- 95 Organic cows purchased for growth only—not replacement
- 90 All replacement animals managed organically from last third of gestation
- 75 Organic cows purchased based on commercial availability
- 50 Conventional animals purchased
- 10 Calves sold at birth, conventional cattle bought for replacements
- 5 Calves shifted off to contractors who raise them with conventional feed/drugs for first year of life,then shift them back to organic production
- 0 No answer
10.Antibiotic Use on Young Cattle
- 100 All antibiotic use prohibited
- 75 Not regulated by firm (default to USDA standards)
- 50 Antibiotic use allowed during first year of life
- 25 Commercial replacement cattle purchased (antibiotic use unknown)
- 5 Calves are sold, to take advantage of loophole, and managed conventionally for first year of life
- 0 No answer
11. Hormone Usage
It should be noted that hormones for increasing milk production (genetically engineered bovine growth hormone—BGH or rBST—are prohibited in organic dairy production. Some farms choose to use therapeutic ormones during reproduction (oxytocin).
- 100 No hormones used on farm
- 50 Hormones used therapeutically
- 0 No answer
12. Farm Support/Oversight/Supervision
Characteristically, farmstead producers are with their cows every day and personally supervise the production of he dairy products. In the words of one such farmer, “We live here.” Some organizations have a dedicated field staff, or the owner visits with the organic farmers regularly.
- 100 Farmstead dairies (owner farms/lives on-site)
- 90 Cooperative/corporation that sets standards and has a staff that visits farms regularly
- 75 Depends on third party for supervision
- 5 No direct supervision/no personal relationship with farm
- 0 No answer
13. Procurement of Outside Ingredients
- 100 100% of dairy products come from within the organization (full control)
- 90 Outside purchases are from other highly rated dairy organizations
- 50 Dairy ingredients purchased from a number of different vendors, with less direct control
- 25 Purchases from anonymous suppliers (“open market”)
- 0–25 Purchases ingredients from confinement factory farms(points depend on percentage) or imports
- 0 No answer
Cornucopia describes its rankings as:
-
- Five-cow-rated dairy marketers. These “outstanding” farmstead dairies are the top-rated dairy brands in our study. The top seven farms in this category had perfect scores of 1200. Their intimate relationship with their cowsand complete control over their milk and other dairy ingredients, not to mention that 100% of profits go back to the farm family, are what distinguish this group. Farms rated just under 1200 might have less than 100% controlof their milk supply (they might buy from a few neighbors) or the products they manufacture might require other off-farm dairy products, like milk powder. However, they are still very much hands-on manufacturers in comparison to larger commercial entities, and a wonderful way for consumers to directly connect with their food.
- Four-cow-rated dairy marketers are generally larger commercial manufacturers or marketers of dairy products. They tend to buy milk from many different farmers or wholesale from a milk supplier who manages the relationship with individual farmers. All the “excellent” brands in this category are highly respected and sourcetheir milk from family-scale farms.
- Three-cow-rated dairy marketers. The two “very good” companies in this segment both deserve specialrecognition and encouragement. Ben & Jerry’s found it impossible, as they desired, to find enough organic milin Vermont to meet their needs. Committed to start offering organic ice cream, they currently buy milk on the open market. HP Hood markets milk under the Stonyfield name and buys all their milk from a wide number ofsources of family-farm milk. The nature of their procurement practices give them much less control over the supervision of their farms. They are working hard to upgrade their direct control over their milk supply and, boththese companies could potentially rise in future rankings..
- Two-cow-rated dairy marketers. These “good” private-label brands have what appear to be a questionable long-term commitment to organics. Note that this information is based on industry sources and governmentalrecords. No private-label supplier participated in the study.
- One-cow-rated dairy marketers (PRIVATE-LABEL). These are “substandard” with some or all factory-farm milk or milk from unknown sources. (However, even though rated lower, we consider this milk to be superior to conventional milk). Note that this information is based on industry sources and governmental records. No private-label supplier participated in the study.
- One-cow-rated dairy marketers (BRAND-NAMES). These are also “substandard” and appear with a one cow ranking either because some or all of their milk come from factory farms and/or because they refused to be open with their customers as to where their milk comes from.
Deni also mentioned that Switzerland and France may only allow pasture-raised cows (I shall have to look into this — I mean, I know Switzerland banned veal crates, pig gestation crates, and chicken battery cages, so it seems likely), so you can eat Swiss and French cheese with less cruelty, and that if you buy cheese with “suggestions of lavender” the cows that ate it probably were in pastures eating lavender, which they probably enjoyed. I actually don’t eat much cheese, but I’m fully determined to only eat cheese from Switzerland and France in the future. (Since I love French cheeses, I don’t think this will be too difficult.) I shall also look for the “suggestions of lavender” because I like to support feeding cows lavender.
Here’s the list of all Cornucopia’s organic farm rankings:
Cornucopia Rankings of Organic Dairies:
5 Cow Rating (Outstanding)
- Animal Farm Orwell, VT Butter Vermont (total score: 1200)
- Evans Farmhouse Creamery Norwich, NY Fluid milk products New York/New Jersey (total score: 1200 )
- Green Hills Harvest Purdin, MO Fluid milk products Iowa, Kansas, Missouri (total score: 1200 )
- Kimberton Hills Phoenixville, PA Fluid milk products (raw) Pennsylvania (total score: 1200 )
- Oak Grove Organics Carthage, IL Fluid milk products (Cheese and butter) Chicago/W. Illinois (total score: 1200 )
- Organic Pastures Dairy Company Fresno, CA Fluid milk products (raw) California or sold as pet food (total score: 1200 )
- Radiance Dairy Fairfield, IA Fluid milk products Fairfield, Iowa (total score: 1200 )
- Butterworks Farm Westfield, VT Yogurt East Coast (total score: 1190 )
- Crystal Ball Farms Osceola, WI Fluid milk products Minnesota/Wisconsin (total score: 1190 )
- Seven Stars Phoenixville, PA Yogurt East Coast / Midwest (total score: 1190 )
- Hails Family Farm Wyalusing, PA Cow and goat milk, cheese, yogurt, kefir East Coast (total score: 1185 )
- Cedar Summit Dairy New Prague, MN Fluid milk/yogurt/ice cream Minnesota (total score: 1180 )
- Hawthorne Valley Farm Ghent, NY Yogurt, cheese, raw milk sales on the farm East Coast (total score: 1180 )
- PastureLand Dodge Center, MN Cheese, butter (seasonal production) Midwest (total score: 1170 )
- Traders Point Farms Zionsville, IN Fluid milk/yogurt Indiana/Illinois (total score: 1170 )
- Strafford Organic Creamery Strafford , VT Fluid milk products E. New Hampshire (total score: 1165 )
- Butternut Farms Gilbersville, NY Cheese Nationwide (total score: 1155 )
- Castle Rock Farms Osseo, WI Fluid milk products Wisconsin, Minnesota, Illinois (total score: 1150 )
- St. John’s Organic Farm Emmett, ID Fluid milk products (not homogenized) Idaho (total score: 1150)
4 Cow Rating (Excellent)
- Organic Choice Prescott, WI Wholesale milk, cheese Nationwide (total score: 1135 )
- Organic Valley (CROPP) La Farge, WI Full line dairy Nationwide (total score: 1135 )
- This Land is Your Land Wilmington, DE Fluid Milk Products,goat cheese and yogurt Nationwide (total score: 1130 )
- Wisconsin Organics Thorp, WI Fluid, cheese, butter Midwest, plus (total score: 1130 )
- Cedar Grove Cheese Plain, WI Cheese Nationwide (total score: 1125 )
- Amish Country Farms Totowa, NJ Fluid milk products Nationwide (total score: 1100 )
- Julie’s (Oregon Ice Cream) Eugene, OR Ice cream Nationwide (total score: 1100 )
- Nancy’s (Springfield Creamery) Eugene, OR Yogurt/sour cream, cream & cottage cheese Nationwide (total score: 1095 )
- Sibby Farm Westby, WI Ice cream Midwest (total score: 1095 )
- Natural by Nature West Grove, PA Fluid, whip cream East Coast, whipped cream nationwide (total score: 1085 )
- Humboldt Creamery Fortuna, CA Ice cream, powder Nationwide (total score: 1075 )
- Organic Creamery (DCI Cheese) Sun Prairie, WI Cheese Nationwide (total score: 1075 )
- Whole Foods Markets (365 organic) Austin, TX Fluid milk products Nationwide (total score: 1070 )
- Farmers All Natural Creamery Wellman, IA Fluid milk products, cheese Midwest, Atlanta (total score: 1045 )
- Helios Sauk Centre, MN Kefir Nationwide (total score: 1045 )
- Lifeway Morton Grove, IL Kiefir Nationwide (total score: 1045)
- Clover Storenetta Petaluma, CA Fluid milk products California (total score: 1040)
- Naturally Iowa Clarinda, IA Milk, ice cream Midwest (total score: 1035)
- Stonyfield (yogurt) Londonderry, NH Yogurt Nationwide (total score: 1035)
- Wallaby Yogurt Napa, CA Yogurt, ice cream Nationwide (total score: 1025)
- Straus Family Creamery Marshall, CA Full line dairy, ice cream, yogurt California (total score: 1010)
- Scenic Central Milk Prod. Co-op Prairie Du Sac, WI Wholesale milk Nationwide (total score: 1005)
- Natural Choice Oxnard, CA Ice cream Nationwide (total score: 965)
3 Cow Rating (Very Good)
- Stonyfield (milk) HOOD Boston, MA Fluid milk products Eastern half US (total score: 845)
- Ben and Jerry’s South Burlingon, VT Ice cream Nationwide (total score: 560)
2 Cow Rating PRIVATE-LABEL (good, but questionable long-term commitment to organics) Note: information based on ”industry sources” no private-label supplier participated in the study
- Harris Teeter Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Heavenly Organics, Inc Sweetened condensed milk Nationwide (total score: 0)
- HyVee Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Kroger (Naturally Prefered) Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Stop & Shop (Natures Promise) Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Wakefern/Shoprite Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
1 Cow Rating PRIVATE-LABEL (some or all factory-farm milk or unknown source, but better than conventional) Note: information based on ”industry sources” no private-label supplier participated in the study
- Costco (High Meadows-Aurora) Butter Nationwide (total score: 0)
- Costco (Kirkland Signature) Fluid milk products Nationwide (total score: 0)
- Giant (Natures Promise) Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Haggens (Full Circle) Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Ingles Markets Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Safeway ( O - Organics) Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Topco (Full Circle) Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Tops (Natures Promise) Fluid milk products (Unknown region) (total score: 0)
- Trader Joe’s Fluid milk products Nationwide (total score: 0)
- UNFI (Woodstock) Fluid milk products Nationwide (total score: 0)
- Wild Oats Fluid milk products Nationwide (total score: 0)
1 Cow Rating BRAND-NAME (Ethically Challenged) Most produce or purchase factory-farm milk, none were open enough to participate in this study
- Alta Dena (Dean Foods) City of Industry, CA Purchased by Dean Foods. Alta Dena is a brand managed by Dean. West Coast (total score: 0)
- Aurora Organic Dairy Boulder, CO Largest conventional/organic factory-farm operator. Largest Private label manufacturer. Nationwide (total score: 0)
- Back to Nature (Kraft) Glenview, IL Cheese Nationwide (total score: 0)
- Good Heart Organics (Rockview) Downey, CA Fluid milk products California (total score: 0)
- Horizon (Dean Foods) Dallas, TX $11 billion–the nation’s largest conventional & organic milk marketer. Owns 4000 cow “farm”. Nationwide (total score: 0)
- Organic Cow (Dean Foods) Dallas, TX (Northeast) Purchased by Horizon, then Dean Foods. Organic Cow is a brand managed by Dean. East Coast (total score: 0)
- Stremicks (Heritage-Foods) Santa Ana, CA Supplied by factory farm under investigation. Farm paid $300,000 settlement for abusing workers. West Coast (total score: 0)
- Wholesome Valley (Galaxy Foods) Orlando, FL Cheese/processed cheese Nationwide (total score: 0)
Tags : american humane association, clover, cornucopia.org, cruelty free, humane farming, organic